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Winter Wall
T he only man-made structure you can see from the Moon..., so the urban myth goes. A fallacy, but something you heard at school that remains in the back of a drawer, somewhere in the office of your mind. Being as fascinated today as I was then, I had to cross off another line on the 'to do' list and make the journey of a lifetime whilst in China, even if it was to be at -5oC.

With all the myths and legends on board, I set off with a couple of pals and a thick jacket to visit a 2,000 metre section of this wonder of the ancient world - the Great Wall at Mutianyu, seventy kilometres north east of Beijing. You can take a bus to this part of the wall, but we decided to do it in style, with a taxi ferrying us out there and back for 500 RMB - a journey of just over an hour each way. There were three of us, so it worked out to be quite reasonable, and was worth the comfort and warmth, as we made good use of the 'down time' to catch up on some sleep!

We arrived in the northern part of Huairou County to find a complete market street at the foot of a steep hill, complete with stalls selling all manner of products; comestibles such as nuts and dried fruits, cheap gifts, hats and wooden carvings. On one stall, clay statues of lost warriors fought for space amongst nick-nacks and watches bearing the face of Chairman Mao, while waiting drivers sat consuming noodles and jaozi at tables laid out along the street.

We opted for the cable car up to the wall, at 35 yuan one way (50 yuan for the round trip). Peering out from our cabin, once used by the former Prime Minister of the UK, John Major, it was soon evident that we had made a good choice as the trek below looked arduous and physically demanding.

At the end of the cable, we strode up a few dozen steps and onto the first parapet, seven metres in height and five metres thick, a truly breathtaking monument. But the first thing that hits you is the view, for hundreds of kilometres in all directions, with the Great Wall snaking out in front like a huge dragon, straddling the steep ridges and deep valleys of Huairou County.

This section of the wall was first constructed in the mid 6th Century, during China's Northern Dynasties period (386 - 581), but what remains today is the main restoration from the Ming Dynasty (1368 - 1644), stretching from Juyongguan Pass in the west to Gubeikou Gateway in the east. Once our jaws had closed again, we made our way along the parapet to the first of some 22 watchtowers on this 2,250 metre span. Striding into these huge stone structures, all of which differ in size and Pass in the west to Gubeikou Gateway in the east. Once our jaws had closed again, we made our way along the parapet to the first of some 22 watchtowers on this 2,250 metre span. Striding into these huge stone structures, all of which differ in size and function, you can't help becoming a soldier on lookout duty from all those years ago, dressed just as the faux-warriors down on the brow of the hill, touting to have their photograph taken with you.

" The first thing that hits you is the view, for hundreds of kilometres in all directions, with the Great Wall snaking out in front like a huge dragon, straddling the steep ridges and deep valleys of Huairou County." The peace and quiet invokes a serenity, rendering you speechless and somehow closer to your inner self. It's overwhelming, with one sentence returning to our lips again and again as we walked, "How the hell did they get the rocks up here?"

Prisoners, soldiers, and local workers, toiled throughout the seasons to construct this beast, with Prisoners, soldiers, and local workers, toiled throughout the seasons to construct this beast, with some of the them losing their lives to the backbreaking task and becoming part of the wall forever, as 'in-fill' for the foundations. The most famous fort on this section is Zheng Bei Tai, a castle complex that consists of three inner-connected watchtowers, ensuring the defending forces could control any attempt at an invasion. Standing on the fortifications, it's impossible to believe how anyone would want to attempt an invasion in the first place!

We carried on our journey east, knowing we were heading in the right direction, the map telling us we would eventually meet the safety of the toboggan and civilisation in about 30 minutes. The map proved correct, and body-swerving another vendor peddling her wares, we forked right and met the path descending to our exit. The slide down the mountain was worth the price of admission alone, and one by one we scythed through at thirty kilometres per hour and hit the bottom buzzing from the whole trip, faces red from the icy breeze. Now all we had to do was find our driver!

It had truly been a life changing experience for me, with eyes as wide as a child, I had strode the mighty Wall, fought off the invading infidels from the North, lived as a Manchurian gatekeeper, and survived to tell the tale.